How to Buy Rock Climbing Shoes
By BlogTravel
on Friday, February 12, 2010
8:53 PM
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Step 1Determine the type of climbing shoe you need. Traditional shoes are for long climbs, including cracks, face, chimneys, and slabs. They generally have a board last, fit a little more loosely than other climbing shoes, and are comfortable for many hours of climbing. Sport shoes are for mostly face climbing, limited crack climbing, and some climbing gym activity. They are generally slip-lasted and fit more tightly. Performance shoes are generally for overhanging sport routes, bouldering, and competition - not for beginners. -
Step 2Find a climbing shop with a large selection that's deep in sizes. You're going to need to try rock shoes on in person. -
Step 3Note that a good shop will have an artificial wall in the shop for trying shoes out. You're not buying the shoes to walk around in. -
Step 4Give yourself plenty of time. Go shopping by yourself or with a very patient friend. -
Step 5Try on every shoe in the place. Ruin the salesperson's day. You don't want to rush the purchase and find yourself unlacing the shoes on every pitch because you made a hasty decision. -
Step 6Check for snugness. A good-fitting climbing shoe is going to be very, very snug, especially if you're buying a sport shoe. -
Step 7Make sure your toes are cramming into the toe box evenly. If the toe box feels really tight in one spot and not so tight in another, compare the fit with a different manufacturer's shoes. -
Step 8Lace the shoes tightly. The eyes of the lacing should not touch - if the eyes of the lacing touch when the shoes are new, they'll be floppy when the shoes are broken in.
Rock Shoe Glossary
Last: A last is a solid foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last gives shoes their anatomical definition—instep height and volume, heel and toe dimensions and width. Most rock climbing shoes are slip lasted—sewn like a sock around the last.
Midsole: This is an internal stiffener between the footbed (the material on which the bottom of your foot rests) and the outsole (more commonly known as the sole). Midsoles are proprietary materials (generally pressed synthetic fibers or cardboard) and are designed to support the foot and increase power in the toe box. A stiffer midsole supports the foot by distributing weight. Shoes with stiff midsoles are good for edging and for protecting the feet in cracks. A more flexible midsole enhances the smearing capability of a shoe.
Rand: The rand is the strip of rubber that covers the perimeter of the rock shoe between the sole and the upper. Toe rands are essential because they provide an interface with the rock. Rand rubber barely touches the ground and can be made cheaper than high-performance sticky rubber. Most climbers won't notice the difference in rand performance unless they are using the entire shoe for toe and heel hooks.
Slingshot heel rand: This strip of leather is critical in the shoe's shape and fit. The slingshot heel rand defines the shape of the shoe and keeps the toes forward. The slingshot gains importance with leather uppers, since good toe position is critical to climbing shoe performance.
Toe box shape: Traditionally, climbing shoes were nearly symmetrical on both sides. Now toe boxes have become more ergonomically correct. Shoes with an asymmetrical toe have the point of the shoe positioned over the anatomic position of most people's big toes. Radically asymmetrical toes position even more weight over the big toe and inside edge. Toe boxes can also be pointy for pockets, low-volume for cracks, or downturned for overhangs.
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credit: http://www.ehow.com/how_11862_buy-rock-climbing.html
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Great tips about buying rock climbing shoes...Now I know the things need to check before I buy rock climbing shoes...
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